Chasing the Storm: Exploring Tomar and Coimbra, Portugal

Chasing the Storm to Tomar

A fierce and rare storm was striking Lisbon as I made my way to the train station. Bolts of lightning struck closer and closer, and deep thunder echoed off the historic buildings. When I got out of my Uber, my hat flew across the street. The driver quipped, “Hold on to your hats!”

I eventually got on my train and picked a seat facing the storm. I love storms, and the lightning kept up for the entire ride to Tomar.

My end goal was Porto, but I wanted to mix it up and hit a couple of cities along the route. Tomar looked like a cool place with some historic castle vibes, and it was quieter than Lisbon. It turned out to be very quiet. Not many people were around, which was nice, though I did eventually miss the hustle and bustle of a bigger city.

Castle in the Rain

I spent the afternoon wandering and walked up to the medieval castle overlooking the city. It’s a fun one to stand in, because Tomar’s story begins in 1160, when Gualdim Pais, a Templar knight, was granted lands by King Afonso Henriques, and the town became the Templars’ headquarters in Portugal. The round church inside, called the Charola, was modeled after the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

The Templars didn’t last, though. In 1312, Pope Clement V dissolved the order across Europe, but Portugal’s King Denis turned it into a new group called the Order of Christ, which kept the castle and its wealth. That order later helped fuel Portugal’s Age of Discovery, with Prince Henry the Navigator as its Master. Today the castle and convent are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It was pretty interesting to see (after the sweaty hike up), but the storm was closing in. Soon I was in a complete downpour, so I ducked into a little riverside cafe and had a beer. It was almost impossible to stay dry on their patio, even under an umbrella, but there’s something fun about taking in the chaotic scene of the torrential rain while I was in shorts having a drink.

Another interesting highlight there is this matchbook museum. It was one of the coolest museums I’ve ever been to. It had tens of thousands of matchbooks collected over the course of a century. It was fascinating and super cool to see.

That night I switched things up and went for Indian food, which was delicious. It’s always fun trying different cuisines while traveling, even when it isn’t the local one. There’s often really good food out there, and this was no exception.

Coimbra: Capes, Costumes, and a 10-Bed Dorm

After a quick one-night stop in Tomar, I headed to Coimbra, where I stayed one night as well. It’s an old university town, and the university is still very much running. It was founded in 1290, making it one of the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world. It started out in Lisbon and bounced around before settling permanently in Coimbra in 1537. Students still walk around in their traditional black capes. It was busier than Tomar, with plenty of people enjoying the old streets and historic quarter.

I wandered into some kind of university event. People were dancing and holding signs, and I had no idea what was going on, but I took photos and watched for a while.

I stayed in a really cool hostel in an old building, in a 10-bed dorm. Only two other people were in there, so it was quiet, if a bit hot. I really enjoyed Coimbra.

The Boar Spine Challenge

A collection of handwritten menus and notes displayed in a glass case, featuring various food items and prices in Spanish.

Dinner was the real story. I waited about an hour and a half for Zé Manel dos Ossos, a legendary spot that specializes in boar spine. It was very good, but I ordered way too much. I went for one full portion and another half portion, and the waiter assured me I’d be fine. “Oh, you’re big, you can eat it all…are you an athlete?” he said. Then another worker came by and almost scolded him for letting me order that much, convinced I’d never finish it.

I was up for the challenge. It is very rare that I can’t finish a meal. Then the first dish came out, and my jaw nearly hit the floor. It was a massive heap of protein that could have fed a whole family, and then the second dish arrived. Oh boy. I was practically sweating trying to eat, and I slowed down more and more.

I was tucked away upstairs for over an hour, surrounded by families and couples on date nights. The walls were plastered with handwritten drawings from customers over the years, which gave the place a great vibe. In the end, I had to tap out and get the rest to go.

Downstairs, the owner poured free shots of grappa for me and a couple visiting from Italy. I always love little moments like that when traveling. Then I walked home, thankful to burn off some of that meal.

My plan was to eat the leftovers for breakfast, but I was still so full, and I had a train to catch. It went in the trash. It was tragic. I hate throwing food away.