Khristian Snyder – Travel Journal

After starting my sabbatical in Nagasaki, I wanted to get out into nature for a nice break from all the busy cities of the last couple of weeks. I had heard about Yakushima during my research over the last year, but I didn’t expect to actually visit the renowned island. I ended up making a booking somewhat last minute, and I’m so glad I did! Yakushima is a lush subtropical island off the southern coast of Kyushu and part of Kagoshima Prefecture. The island is small and only has one main road circling the outer edge. The center is filled with sprawling mountains and thick greenery and gets some of the most rain of anywhere in the entire world! There are many trails that zigzag across the island, so it attracts hikers and nature lovers… my kind of people!

I met a cool Japanese girl sitting next to me on the small propeller plane. She didn’t speak much English but she was a midwife that would fly in to work at the local hospital in Yakushima for a week at a time. The once distant island on the horizon grew larger and larger and I couldn’t help but notice the close resemblance to Kauai. The island was impossibly lush and green with just a scattering of houses here and there in the few towns. Once we landed at the tiny airport, I picked up my rental car and nervously made my way south (first time driving in Japan!). After grabbing some supplies at one of the island’s few grocery stores, I made it to my hostel, South Village, for the next four nights. The hostel was mostly away from everything and was surrounded by nature! The hostel was roomy and cozy and I quickly met some of the other travelers staying there. A large group of young friends from Tokyo were enjoying a week in nature, hiking and working on some of the local farms. I also met a nice woman from San Jose that had grown up in Japan. She had a business doing forest therapy…taking clients into nature to disconnect from our busy worlds. She was helping a local on the island start up a similar business. My room was comfortable, with the typical futon on tatami and a view of the forest outside. 

I spent the next few days exploring the island. Having a car was crucial here. I was able to go to some stunning waterfalls on the first morning. The falls were roaring after a night of strong rain. I was getting such great footage on my drone but then tragedy struck. As I came in for a landing on a pedestrian suspension bridge, the drone clipped one of the bridge wires and slammed down into the rocks below. As my heart sank into my stomach, the drone then slid straight into the river, resting underwater just above a raging waterfall. I spent a long while contemplating hiking down and jumping in the water to retrieve it but the risks were too high and I said goodbye to my drone and the day’s footage.

Yakushima is covered by an extensive cedar forest that contains some of Japan’s oldest living trees. Trees more than 1000 years old are called yakusugi (a combination of Yakushima and sugi, the Japanese word for cedar), the most ancient of which may be over 7000 years old! One of the trails I hiked was also the inspiration of the Ghibli film ‘Princess Mononoke’. The hikes were absolutely stunning. Waterfalls, deep emerald forests covered in moss, and towering ancient cedar trees standing majestically over the land. My longest hike led me to one of the island’s highest summits. I didn’t expect to be hiking through ice and snow! It was a solid hike with some tricky steep rope scrambles which were a bit sketchy solo. After each hike I would make my way to the most amazing onsen. This onsen was nested into the rocks along the ocean. As the tide drained out, several pools of perfectly hot water were revealed. Local families and visitors would all strip naked, grab a towel to cover up, and soak away in the various pools. I especially loved watching the sunset here and it was great to see how everyone would pause and stare at the sun dipping below the horizon. I think it is quite special how everyone has the same mutual awe and appreciation of nature. 

On my last night in Yakushima I finished off a hot spring soak and made my way to a random izakaya nearby that seemed good. It took me a while to find it as it was quite literally just a house on the side of the road. I opened the door and popped into what was basically a large living room and kitchen. I was a bit nervous as many locals and families were already inside enjoying food and drink. Would there be room for me? As I took off my shoes, I noticed one table of a few girls gesturing at me. I realized one of the girls was the forest therapist I had met at my hostel! They motioned for me to come join them. Solo travel often means eating alone so it is always fun to dine with others that you meet along the way. There I met the two other girls and learned their story. Both were visiting the island long-term. We shared some delicious fish, onigiri, and other classic izakaya foods before heading back to the hostel. 

Rejuvenated and recharged with time spent on the beautiful island of Yakushima, I caught a ferry that took a few hours to make it to my next destination back on Kyushu, Kagoshima!